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The motor runs backwards, also on the swap I did I had to trim the three sleeves that the bolts go through to the base. If you have a sadering gun you can pull it apart and reverse the wires. I did this on mine.




100 things to do and wasting time on tapatalk!!!
 

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Thanks for the video and this thread, it really helped me out with my 08 Brute. Turned out my issue was one of the magnets cracked in half and was floating inside the housing. Crazy glue seems to have done the trick.

Regards,
Jaxon
 

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Hate to beat a dead horse here but I'm hoping someone can help me out. Thanks for all the information and input by everyone who has already posted. New to the forum and have a few more questions that I can't seem to find answers for.

So with the help of the PDF file posted previously I have been able to do checks 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6. I watched the video posted about how to take apart and clean the KEBC or 4x4 actuator, but my problem lies with the 4x4, KEBC is functional. So with the advice given in the video about bench testing the KEBC with 12v to see if it works before reinstalling, I thought I would give it a shot at connecting the 4x4 actuator to 12v only through the red and black wires. When I did so I could hear the actuator move. Nothing short of a miracle. So I then put the quad on jack stands, fired it up and ran it with the 4x4 actuator disconnected. Then while it was running put 12v back to it and low and behold the 4x4 kicked in and worked. So I feel that the actuator itself is fine. I had already pulled all the fuses, cleaned and lubed them, took off the fuse box cleaned it out and put it all back together, fuses were fine. Took apart the 2wd/4wd switch and everything appeared clean and dry, though the rubber boot is torn at the top like others have mentioned. Tried jumping the switch with a wire to see if 4x4 would kick in, with no luck.

I'm getting a hint that something may be wrong with the actuator controller under the seat and this seems to be a pretty pricey part so my question is, how much voltage is to be put to the 4x4 actuator? would there be an issue if I just moved some wires around to make it so that the switch controlled only a power and ground to the actuator to kick it in when needed?

Also does anyone know of a way to troubleshoot the actuator controller box itself?

Here are the results of the tests from the PDF file

check 1. 4x4 actuator inspection
wires 4/6 = 5.7 ohms in range
wires 1/3 = 4.95 Kohms in range
wires 2/3 = 908 ohms in range

check 3. Controller Power Supply Inspection
Measures battery voltage as it should

check 4. Speed Sensor Inspection
I skipped this at first since my speedo works fine. But irritated with the issue checked it anyway and got a reading of between 0 and 3 volts that seemed to move up to 3 and down to 0 then back as the wheel turned. It would show 5 volts exactly every so often. Don't think this is an issue may just be a slow reading digital meter?

check 5 2wd/4wd shift switch inspection
I did find some issues here. with the switch flipped off, or on 4wd I got a reading of 1.2V when it says it should be 5V. When the switch is flipped to on or 2wd I got the proper 0V.

So after doing that it says to check the switch, which I did and couldn't find an issue with it. And to check actuator controller unit which is check 6.

Check 6 Controller unit inspection
Controller output voltage to actuators standard is 4.8 give or take .2 V....and my reading was 25 mV...hardly a thing.

Anything else I can do with this controller unit? Have I checked all of the right things to lead me to that being the issue? Could it still be a bad connection somewhere causing this? I just hate to put that kind of money out on a stupid black box. Would rather just bypass it so that I can put 12v directly to the actuator when needed. Everything else on the quad works as it should with no issues, I don't want to spend $200 or more on 5V of power....

Thanks for any advice or words of wisdom, and if you took the time to read all of that and can make sense of it, I greatly appreciate it!
 

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Ok I'm new to the site but I've been reading a lot of stuff. Here's my question.. My 4x4 has been acting up lately. When going through a mud hole or putting a little load on it my 4x4 kicks in and out every now and then.. So I figured id take the 4x4 actuator off clean and re grease it and all that. We'll I took everything apart and cleaned it and everything looked new, put everything back together the way it came off. Went to put it back in the front diff and the little shim that goes into the diff was giving me trouble. I could not get it back in. But I worked with it for a few and finally got it popped in. Hooked everything back up and thought I was done, crunk it up to make sure everything was good and for some reason it made a terrible grinding noise and would barely spin the back tires over. Took it back apart and the little block that goes in the front diff was cracked and very hard to turn. When I took it off the first time this block felt free and very easy to turn. I don't have no idea what happened but I was suppose to be headed to red creek tomorrow but don't look like I am. Sorry for the long post but I'd appreciate any help I could get.
Thanks in advance, Matt
 

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Hey man I'm having no luck with mh acculator. Can u shoot me a private message with a phone number or somthing? I can't private message on this form yet because of post count
 

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wheres the link
 

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If your a subscribing member you can download from maps an manual section
 

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So I have done what you did in video and test ok, even checked ohm reading and are ok. When I turn switch off it will not stop humming and will drain battery. If I switch off and on several times it will quit. Do you know what this could be and how to fix?
 

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So I have done what you did in video and test ok, even checked ohm reading and are ok. When I turn switch off it will not stop humming and will drain battery. If I switch off and on several times it will quit. Do you know what this could be and how to fix?
Take the cover loose and pull it partly off. Turn the key on them back off. If it rotates once and stops, it's having a problem pushing the primary spider in. What spring do you have in it? Look to the forks as well. If it still doesn't stop, the potentiometer is likely bad...or the unit is binding somehow.
 
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